The ‘steps’ are long and steep, in parts it’s more a clamber than a hike. And now, guideless and blonde, I’m prey to all of the Bedouin merchants and donkey handlers that dot the path, ‘Long climb miss! Where you from? Taxi!,’ they offer, brandishing a donkey, ‘free air conditioning!’. It grows hotter as I climb, and the merchants more agressive. It’s like the path to hell.